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This land in the heart of Europe has become the epitome of a changing continent. Money has begun to flow into the country, repairing roads, building shopping malls and beautifying streets, but the progress is laboriously slow for some. Despite the country's rush to embrace the future, its past cannot be ignored. Warsaw is embracing New World cuisine, café culture and clubs that never close, but you'll still encounter peasant women selling bunches of flowers in its beautifully reconstructed Old Town. In the northern expanse you can find 14th-century Gothic castles. If you choose any major city, you'll bear witness to extermination camps, derelict Jewish cemeteries, and dark political prisons, terrible reminders from the last 70 years. While cities rapidly modernize, its countryside continues to retain its rustic allure. The north of Poland, stretching to the Baltic Sea, consists almost entirely of lowlands, while the Carpathian Mountains form the southern border. The clear waters of the Great Masurian Lakes, the largest and most-visited lake district in Poland, prove irresistible to sailors and kayakers, and the long, sandy beaches of the Baltic coast provide opportunity for summer seaside sojourns.